Carnets de voyage - Iran 3
View of old Naein city from the ruins of its citadel. A beautiful little desert city between Esfahan and Yazd, where I slept one night and discovered most of the wonders awaiting for me in Yazd.
March 30th, Dariun taxi station, Shiraz
Waking up in Shiraz was brutal and so confusing. I thought, after setting myself as comfortable as possible to sleep in the night bus leaving from Yazd, that we were just stopping for a rest. When they shoved me out, totally disoriented I grabbed my things and followed, blind and deaf, thinking we would change bus. But no Shiraz it was already, and nighttime still. Which is not as planned since I am going to a couch in a city outside of Shiraz, but I don’t want to arrive so early.
Yazd main plazza at night, its infamous badghirs lights reflected in the fountain. With Nowruz holidays Yazd was packed of tourists and very-too lively day and night.
Now it is not an issue any more, as I have to wait for people to share my next taxi. The sun at last has risen over the mountains, the road is quiet, my mind peaceful. I would not have expected it from myself, but maybe still fuzzy from the sleep I quietly breathe the fresh, humid morning air, accepting anything to come to me, ready for the future.
I miss home although quite hard, the feeling of comfort and predictability. Here is all unknown, unrest and amazement. No comfort in a language I don’t understand, but full trust in people to help me honestly and kindly. Few rest in my own room or space but the certitude to be welcome in Dariun soon, and, for the rest, I will see…
The farm of my host family in quiet Dariun, a village in the countryside outside of Shiraz. An Afghan family runs the daily chores; they live in the farm in poor conditions.
April 1st (really! already!), Shiraz bus terminal
I can’t believe it is April already, time flies although each day of travel feels long when so full of discoveries. Today I feel excited to continue my journey for its last part, the North West, where I seek to go for hiking and enjoying more nature and mountains. Now that I have a more precise plan and already couchsurfing hosts welcoming me I feel more confident and eager to go.
It was difficult to leave Shiraz though, as my host family is so nice and today they went for a picnic out of town, as it is “Seize the nature” day, 13 days after the New Year and the end of Nowruz holidays. I would have loved joining them, eating again their delicious food, playing cards and football, but that would leave me too little time for my next destinations – Kermanshah, Hamadan and Qazvin. I am taking a 14h bus drive to the first so I will have time to read more details about these cities and the region, and learn my Arabic vocabulary.
A beautiful and quiet shrine in Shiraz where my heart found inspiration and peace
As I look back, although I went through times of doubt and struggle, I feel that I enjoyed must of my stay in Shiraz, thanks to my great hosts and yesterday visit of Persepolis. The site, at the bottom of a sacred mountain was inspiring, and I had the pleasure to meet another traveler with whom I continued the day with. This is the first time – and I am so glad for this – I meet someone eager to visit Chad! He loves traveling and includes ‘extreme’ places in his plans too. I wish I could see more of Chad as well, visit it work free.
I have to admit that what I preferred most in Persepolis was walking on the mountain above the archeological site.
I am now sitting in the bus, the least comfortable of all although it will be my longest trip – and longest bus trip in my life too! (Actually I don’t remember how long were our bus trips in the Philippines, from the mountains to the sea we spent nights in there) I am sipping the refreshing, almost mint flavored yoghurt you find everywhere – with ice cream and kebab I guess the most popular food. They also have a funny ice cream we tried in Esfahan, spaghetti like frozen water with lemon juice and rose water. Not bad.
Yesternight we actually went for ice cream with my whole host family, to a famous place in Shiraz. It was a bit strange for me because we just got out of the car to eat, then back again to go to another food place (yummy sambousik), then back home. No walk around, maybe because it is too packed with Nowruz tourists. In the car we danced on modern Iranian songs, it was good, I miss dancing. We had danced also a little in our home in Esfahan, watching the movie of our hosts’ wedding, while she showed us the basic moves: foot forward, hands waving and turning. It was fun.
A Dutch couple I met in Yazd is going to an Iranian wedding; it will be such a great experience I believe, with alcohol and bare heads and arms! I like this couple very much; they have quite a different style of visiting than mine, as they take their time, two full days per city, no rushing to the mains sites, chatting with people.
Standing above Shiraz on the mountain surrounding the city entrance, where many Iranian families enjoy walking and a picnic in the fresh air
Hill after hill, curve after curve of bare mountains rocks and bushes adorned – but for the road and parallel electricity cables. And as far as goes the gaze higher mountains rise behind each other golden in front, dark to the back, waving under the cloudy sky. We navigate across the deserted ocean of rocks and solitude. The pastel blue and red by the sun lit soften the edges of the crests welcoming, inviting us from afar. Will we drive toward them, through them or wave our way around or in between?
Astonishing view as we drive through the desert, getting closer to the mountains lit by a soon setting sun